In  Lingerie

Everyone Deserves Pretty Knickers – The Jane Knickers Sewalong Part 2

By Susan | Comments: 2 | June 6, 2014

Today in Sydney the weather is dark and dreary and it’s looking to be this way for the whole weekend. So load up on supplies and make yourself knickers all weekend. Much more fun than bothering about in this weather!

We are part way with The Jane Knickers, we left off just after overlocking the raw edge of the crotch seam.


On the lower front panels use the notches to indicate the gathered areas. I’ve shown them using pins to make it easy to see.

1 front panel notches

Between the notches run a gathering stitch. A gathering stitch is a straight stitch with a very long stitch length. Stitch a row and then stop, leave long thread tails and stitch another row. Again leaving the long tails. They should be a few mm apart. Repeat for the other front panel.

2 gathering stitches

Pulling the lower threads of your gathering stitch, gently pull them to create gathers.

3 gathers

Once you have created your gathers, pin the yoke to the lower front panels with right sides together.

4 pin yoke in place

Using a straight stitch (be sure to change it back to regular stitch length after gathering). Sew a 1cm seam allowance.

5 straight stitch yoke

Take out your gathering threads by gently pulling them through.

6 straight stitch yoke take out gathering threads

Finish the raw edge using an overlocker/serger or zig zagging.

7 overlock yoke

Press the seam allowance from the yoke seam up towards the waist and topstitch down. This is not 100% necessary but is a nice way to ensure a smoother finish to the inside of the knickers.

8 topstitch yoke

With right sides together, match side seams and pin together.

9 pin side seams

Using a straight stitch sew a 1cm seam. Repeat for other side.

10 straight stitch side seam

Finish the raw edge using an overlocker/serger or zig zagging.

11 overlocked side seam

Finish the raw edge of the hems by using an overlocker/serger or zig zagging. If you are using a very fine fabric you make like to think about doing a roll hem or a very fine double turn hem.

12 overlocked hems

Press hem up by 6mm to 1cm and iron into place. Straight stitch hem in place.

14 stitched down hems

Finish raw edge of waist by overlocking/serging or zig zag stitch.

15 overlocked waist

Turn finished edge of waist to the inside of the garment and press down by 1cm. The elastic is going to be topstitched in so you will be stretching the elastic as you are stitching it in place. I’m using a pretty purple lingerie elastic because that’s what I had in my stash and I like the way a contrast colour looks.

Measure the waist circumference, ideally your elastic length should be 2/3rds the full circumference. Before you cut, wrap the elastic around you and see if the 2/3rd measurement suits you. If you would like it roomier than go for a longer length of elastic. If you are unsure stick with the 2/3rds measurement.

Take your waist elastic, fold in half and half again. Put a pin at each of the quarters. Starting from the side seam pin the elastic on the inside of the waist at side seam, centre front, side seam, centre back and the last one will go to the side seam but we don’t want to pin that one just yet. It’s easier to attach it once you have already stitched the start point to the side seam.

16 elastic

Stitch and pull the elastic to one pin, once you reach the pin then move it, stretch the elastic to the next pin and stitch down. By going quarter by quarter it’s not only easier it means an even distribution of gathers too.Keep going until you reach the last pin, the end of the elastic should now be matched to the side seam you started at. Stretch the elastic for the final quarter and stitch in place.

Your waist should now have elastic attached all the way around.

And you are done!

17 finished

That’s it! With the sewalongs this week you can now construct The Charlotte Knickers a full bottom coverage style, The Georgiana Knickers a bikini brief style, The Lydia Knickers a cheeky G string style and The Jane Knickers a sweet style style. We have other DIY/Tutorial posts scheduled for the future where you can build on these skills. Till then have fun making knickers and remember to tag your makes #everyonedeservesprettyknickers

Tomorrow we have some more fun stuff planned for the wrap up of Knickers week so be sure to check back then.


  • Gabriella
    June 17, 2014

    Hello, to add an elastic band to the knickers do you use an overlock? If yes it is best to do it with 3-threads?

    • Susan Goodwin
      June 17, 2014

      I’ve tried it with 3 and 4 thread and both work fine. 3 is slightly “softer” so that’s nice, but really either will work.

Comments are closed.




Hi, I'm Susan. A designer living in Sydney, Australia.

Here I share tales of my sewing, my pattern collection and insights into what it's like to work as a professional fashion designer.

Other recurring themes include cat photos and an ever changing hair style.



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